Summer might seem light-years away, but the new Nshry (pronounced ‘Noshery’) is already tempting a return to the beach. Once a rundown kiosk on Beaconsfield Parade, it’s now a bayside café and bar finding favour with iPod-toting runners, upwardly locals and city-sick sun catchers.

Spread your broadsheet on the skinny communal table out front, overlooking the bay (perfect for drenched pets and owners), or head inside to escape the elements. Once settled, mull over big and little ‘noshes.’

It’s been 18 months in the making for owner-siblings, Michael and Jen Nham, whose parents once owned a Vietnamese restaurant and are now making their first hospitality inroad. Michael’s in the kitchen, drawing inspiration from a recent sojourn to Japan and recreating childhood favourites like an omelette with Japanese mushrooms and white truffle oil, spring onions and chilli soy dressing. Other offerings include spicy poached eggs with parmesan and chilli oil on sundried tomato-and-chilli sourdough (from Bay Street’s Noisette boulangerie), and usual suspects like croque madames, baked beans and eggs benny.

After midday, order an umami burger: a wagyu/angus patty with a ‘umani’ rub, gruyere cheese, caramelised onions and roasted tomatoes on brioche with a side of onion rings, slaw, cornichons, spicy chip dip and wasabi Kewpie mayo. A Vietnamese beef soup and poached chicken salad are both variants of their mother’s special recipe.

The design is minimalistic: hundreds of timber stalactites hang from the ceiling, and there’s a mock-marble bar, plus pale-wood puzzle piece walls and sandy-feet-friendly floor.

Currently serving coffee using Campos ‘Superior Blend’ (think caramel intonations and cherry highlights), the single-origin beans change weekly. There are also syphon coffee pours, while the Oji, a Japanese cold drip machine, will crank in summer. If coffee won’t cut it, a watermelon, lime, ginger and mint juice just might, or if it’s been a warm day, kick off your thongs and unwind on the promenade with a Murray’s Whale Ale. It’s entirely linger worthy.

Dinner plans are on foot and a takeaway nosh and ice-cream bar will open in summer. So if nothing else, a blood orange sorbet will set you up for a post-nosh walk on the promenade.

Where: 19A Beaconsfield Pde (opp Kerferd Rd), Albert Park
Hours: Tue-Sun 8am-4pm. Open all public holidays
Phone: (03) 9682 1077
Details: nshry.com.au