Move over Greek gods of Melbourne – Sydney’s Greco dining is escaping mere-mortal status (Xanthi notwithstanding), thanks to a stunning new forum in Potts Point. George Calombaris, your NSW competition starts… now!

Welcome to The Apollo, sure to become the latest darling of Macleay Street. The spacious 90-seater is the brainchild of Longrain co-owner Sam Christie and ex-Manly Pavilion head chef Jonathan Barthelmess, family friends and hospitality titans putting their Greek heritages into play for the first time.

The food’s traditional Greek but reworked and refreshed. Barthelmess has installed dual barbecues in his gargantuan kitchen, separately using hot coals and smoky wood, the latter used to slow-cook whole joints of large beasts, from lamb rib and loin, to cumin/paprika-spiced pork rump and oily market fish worthy of Aegean cravings: sardines, mackerel and the like.

Dishes are to share, so bring your ravenous mates. Start with housemade pita and taramasala, then progress to the already popular grilled octopus with chickpeas and cucumber, the pig’s tail salad with sorrel and pomegranate faro and the pepper-sage pilaf – a recipe from the chef’s mum. Oh, and the wild weed and cheese pie has been pipped from Sydney’s three-hat chef emeritus and Barthelmess’ mentor, Janni Kyritsis… with his blessing.

Somehow, what was a cavernous Indian restaurant is now a 4m-high ceiling arena that’s Greek without the kitsch: distressed cement columns, exposed ceilings, archway windows, and an elongated bar topped with marbled granite. Want the VIP treatment? Snare the 12-seater chef’s table, housed in private nook adjacent to the kitchen.

Yes, this is a Greek eatery worthy of Sydney’s Adonises and Aphrodites. Apollo be praised.

Where: 44 Macleay St, Potts Point
Hours: Tue-Sun 6pm-late
Phone: (02) 8354 0888
Details: theapollo.com.au