Despite its well-heeled reputation, Mosman has been thin on chic, casual drinking and dining establishments… until now. Sean Byrne, the former general manager of Jonah’s Whale Beach, and his wife Helen have unveiled the Hawthorn in the centre of Mosman’s retail precinct.

Housed in a restored heritage-listed cottage, the exterior is Federation quaint, yet the dining room beyond is all contemporary coastal chic – light and bright, courtesy of Coco Republic, who looked after the interior under the Byrnes’ careful direction.

Consultant Chef George Francisco, who was previously head chef at Jonah’s, has devised the seasonally driven menu in consultation with Hawthorn’s head chef Marco Salvador. Salvador cooked at Bill’s Woollahra for two years and opened Bill’s Tokyo with his former boss, Bill Granger.

At his new post, Salvador turns out food that keeps Mosman locals happy. From hearty huevos rancheros at breakfast time, to flash-fried semolina-coated calamari at lunch, share plates and nibbles with drinks, and a dinner menu generous with options. The latter includes such highlights as a fish-of-the-day with a blood orange reduction; a spaghetti with blistered tomatoes and feta; and a 350g grass-fed rib-eye accompanied by perfect fritte and café de Paris butter.

The adjoining bar is reminiscent of the speakeasies of old: a ceiling fan whirs overhead, leather-studded easy chairs beckon and the bar is well stocked. Cocktails are the order of the day, but there is also an extensive wine list and knowledgeable staff to point you in the right direction.

Locals have flocked to Hawthorn, embracing its, ‘all things to all people’ attitude. From early post-workout breakfasts to business lunches, the terrace and dinning room are abuzz. Despite nearby Neutral Bay getting the lion’s share of notable eat and drink openings of late, the Hawthorn should now help put the brakes on any simmering North Shore menu envy.

Where: 707 Military Rd, Mosman, NSW

Phone: (03) 9968 4244

When: Breakfast & lunch Tues-Sun | Dinner Thu-Sun

Details: hawthornmosman.com.au