Sushi Yachiyo, that stellar sashimi-nilgiri contender tucked away in Darlinghurst, has now taken its bang-for-the-buck Japanese ethos to Surry Hills… and this time it’s lubing itself up in oil. Alas, we haven’t spotted any sumo matches between the two cooks manning Katsu Yachiyo’s open kitchen (yet), but we are seeing plenty of dedication to Japan’s improved version of KFC – katsu.

Most of us who’ve tried katsu have done the cheap-n-cheerful breaded chicken or pork variety – you know, the kind that goes well with beer and student budget (being an actual student not required). And, yes, the J-schnitzels are here, but at this intimate black-on-black space, just two doors from The Devonshire, they’re serving more than a simple fry-up.

No, chef Mitsuhiro Yachiyo, formerly of Kyoto’s Michelin-starred Akai, is elevating the Japanese dude food. He’s creating such fine plates as wagyu cheeks braised in soy for 24 hours and then crumbed and fried, kurobuta pork cutlet with shiso and sesame, edamame ‘arancini’, and creamy croquettes of shredded lamb. Let’s call it fryin’ dining, or haute cutleture.

Even better, your bill has humble aspirations. Katsu mains start at $12.80 and top out at $19.50, and even the ladder-leading 12-piece chef’s sashimi selection maxes at $25. There’s also $3.20 BYO corkage, but it’s equally tempting to sample the house-imported sakes, the small-but-smart wine list and the shochu selection.

Don’t wanna go full bloat before a beach day? There’s plenty of lighter fare, including a chalkboard-scribbled chef’s selection of sushi and sashimi. Oh yeah, and KY also make their own gyoza, exclusively imported their extra-thick premium soy sauce, and do nasu dengaku – fried eggplant topped with white and red miso – which, if you haven’t inhaled before, you haven’t lived.

Finish it all off with the intriguing sake ‘sorbet’, and then leave totally full – even your wallet’s not going to lose much weight from this gourmet adventure.

Where: 208 Devonshire St, Surry Hills
Hours: Tue-Sat 6-11pm
Phone: (02) 9690 2424
Details: yachiyo.com.au/katsu

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